Mendoza

Adios Buenos Aires… Hola Mendoza.

An experience. Left the Hilton bright and early, so early there was a surcharge on the taxi. The new Ezeiza airport was in a mess. Domestic flights were disrupted due to repairs being made on the runway. Jorge Newbury, the domestic airport was closed for month. No one knew what was happening but hey it’s LatAm and its pretty normal. The boarding pass stated to report to security at 6.40am – and they meant it. SHE (security guard) stood sternly at the entrance, checking all boarding passes with an eagle eye. Coffee with Medialuna – Spanish for Croissant, right next to the gate area while we wait. Talk about the right place at the right time while it lasts.. the cafe was heaving with people but the coffee was good.

At precisely 06.40, she started letting people through to security. Water bottles were OK. Wow, in LatAm, wine is allowed to be carried on board, too. We then understood the reason for the timing. All domestic flights were through ONE gate and after security – no shops, no cafes, no nothing, just ONE gate.

Boarding was by rows. Irritated that my rolling cabin bag was confiscated at the gate. I had my passport and all my money in the bag! Then again the plane was a small one. It left on time and we arrived early. Baggage collection was immediate and Chrissie was waiting for us with the driver.

One of the most beautiful regions in the world with friendly, nice people everywhere. There are 21 wine regions in Argentina with over 1000 wineries in Mendoza alone. Argentinians drink approximately 30 litres of wine per person per year. This figure has certainly dropped with beer and spirits now competing in the market. 1980s saw the overproduction of wine in Argentina leading to many wineries biting the dust.

Tasting notes in separate blogs.

First stop – Mendel a small family run winery headed by Roberto de la Mota, now in his 50s, son of a wine maker, grew up in the vineyard. He worked at LVMH and 2004 was his first vintage at Mendel. Sadly, Roberto was in a very bad car accident but is still involved in the winery. One of the first vineyards in Argentina to export, Mendel is located in the Lujan de Cuyo region. This adobe style winery has four main handpicked grape wines in the making and has steel tanks left in the open! A mobile bottling unit is brought in to do the task.

Next we head to Acheval Ferrer a unique winery with 5 owners, 4 Argentinians and an Italian. Absolutely amazingly modern with all modcons. A bunch of crazy vinophiles, trying all sorts of techniques to produce interesting wines. Fermentation tanks included concrete with external fans to cool the fermenting juice, stainless steel vats and temperature controlled oak barriques. One big space station and the astronauts to go with it! Fabulous wines and two home produced olive oils, too. Professional set up with very knowlegeable guides. Patricia, thank you for that amazing bottle of Dulce which I so enjoyed.

Ruca Malen for lunch. NO physical tour of the vineyard but an amazing palate tour matched food and wine to the almost impossible.

The last stop of the day was to Catena Zapata, brainchild of Laura Catena, 4th generation wine maker of the Zapata fame. The winery probably complete with solar calculations was built on the Mayan inspired culture of science and technology faces the Andes dividing Argentina and Chile. The private drive leading to this winery is just amazing. Breath taking scenery all around. Inside the architecture is just as unique with lighting that matched the feel. Wines were beautifully made.

Dinner was at Siete Cocinas, serving regional Argentinian food. The Pacu was indeed deliciously creamy. A highly prized ugly looking fish from the northern region of Argentina, known to give a good fight to any decent fisherman. On the 1st day of the season speed boats can be seen racing off to the best spots to hunt this moist, almost oily, meaty fish. Washed down with a great bottle of Ruttini’s Torrontes.

Day two took us down to Tupungato and the Uco Valley. First stop was to Andeluna, owned by the America’s Frito Lay (potato chips). Here the irrigation technique is optimal to combat the harsh desert like climate. Michel Rolland is consultant to this winery hence the high quality of wines.

Next to Salentein, a Dutch owned winery with 2000 hectares of vines spread on different altitudes at the base of the Andes. With separate wineries built in the region, the flagship holds an Art collection. Surrounded by rose and jarilla bushes, the wines of Salentein are delicately nosed. The tasting room was highly impressive with fixed spitoons that drained directly into the plumbing. Beautiful stone tables supported the bottles and glasses.

Lunch was at O Fournier, the “piece des resistance” of Mendoza. The out of a James Bond movie winery with it’s flying saucer glass walls looking out into the wilderness was just unbelievable.

 

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Buenos Aires

The day was, as usual, an interesting one. Setting up and running an Italian event at London’s prestigious Queens Club seemed easy. The ballroom is a great venue and staff ever pleasing. With the “Eager Beaver” set up team, we seamlessly worked our way through the pallets of fabulous wine, top EV single estate olive oils, Aceto Balsamico, antipasti, pastas, and of course, luxury Italian leather goods. Then I was told His Excellency the Ambassador of Italy had requested his presence. Attention to detail increased.

Journalists, wine critics, fashionistas, foodies and VIPs arrived first. Photographers and paparazzi started appearing. With prosecco flowing the event eased into an easy start. By 6pm, the room was packed. Sadly, I had to excuse myself. Raced to London’s Heathrow terminal 5 to catch the BA0247 flight to Buenos Aires via SãoPaulo. Racing by London’s tube was by far the best solution, luggage being brought to the airport by husband in a separate taxi. Nothing new, the flight was delayed. Heathrow just cannot sort itself out. With all that new technology, new owners, new terminal, nothing changes.

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First meal in Buenos Aires had to be the steak at

Cabaña Las Lilas,
Av. Alicia Moreau de Justo 516 
Puerto Madero
www.laslilas.com.ar

washed down with a bottle of Alta Vista’s 2005 Terroir Special Malbec. All was forgiven after this absolutely delicious bottle. Argentinian steak is just amazing. I cannot describe the experience. Take that blasted BA flight, the only non-stop to Buenos Aires from London and make the trek to Cabaña.

The Hilton Macacha  is only a 5 minute walk away stituated in the new hip Puerto Madero suburb with it’s own naval police guarding the area. Very safe with all the modern amenities including a great vino shop right opposite the hotel. A sight seeing “hop on hop off” turista bus stops right outside the hotel making it even more convenient to experience Buenos Aires.

La Vinaria de Gualterio Bolivar is a must for the foodie. Recommended to me by a fellow FB-er, whom I met on a “women and wine site”. What Z was doing on a womens site still baffles me. Without him (a gem) and his wealth of all things Argentinian, I would never have found this place. Chef Alejandro Digilio trained under Ferran Adria at El Bulli. Using his knowledge of Argentinian ingredients to create innovative morsels was quite electrifying. 16 tastings served with Colombian Eduardo explaining each course washed down with my choice of Famiglia Schroeder’s worked well. Big heavy bottle with its metal label, first introduced to me by Marcel Moreno years ago.

Gastronomica Buenos Aires:

1. Chila
Calle Alicia Moreau DeJusto 1160
www.chilaweb.com.ar

2. iCentral Market

3. Melba

4.  SottoVoce

5. The Food Factory – http://www.thefoodfactory.com.ar/

 

 

 

 

Wishing ALL a very very merry Christmas and a peaceful 2011

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May it be a wonderful white, snowy Christmas to all in UK………

But, not till after I get on that plane and am up in the skies! Call me a grinch, I don’t care anymore!

Friday morning. As I was uploading photos, I looked out of the patio doors.. eek.. big, white cornflakes. And settling. Closed up the flat and raced out the door. The carpark was white. The car was skidding as I reversed out. Fumbling for the remote control, the gates gently opened…. thank you Terry, from the concierge. Islington was actually looking pretty and I didn’t have time to enjoy it.

The drive to Cheltenham was not pleasant. A repeat of January 2010 crossed my mind but you know what, been there, done it. The CLC Xmas concert was fabulous. With Stephen Parham-Connelly (ex-Kings Singers), now head of Voice, the difference was just phenomenal! The canapes and Prosecco were pretty good and Vicky Tuck was as ever, regal and composed. Totally agree with her, the girls certainly had worked hard, both on the music and walking up steps in “ridiculously high heels”. Part of the core curriculum at the Ladies College!

Saturday morning. Even more “eek”. It was white and getting more white. Our eagerly awaited annual breakfast at Hotel du Vin did not seem appetizing any more. We headed straight for St Austins. Asking for an early leave of absence is something I loathe to do. Missing Vicky Tuck’s last Service of the Nine Lessons was not on the agenda. St Austin’s breakfast certainly has improved but then again we are talking 30 odd years on!

The weather was closing in and the snow, unrelenting. The A40 Cheltenham to Oxford was bad. Cars slipping and sliding. Putting the Desperate and the Nervous on the same road is never a good idea. Good samaritans abandoned their cars to help push stranded cars ahead. A lovely gesture of Christmas goodwill.

By Oxford the windscreen wipers were so heavily crusted snow and ice, the strain on the motor was painful. Had I known what falling snow and falling temperature was about I wouldn’t have been so eager to offer my charitable bit. Even the anti freeze spray was freezing and having left my gloves and hat at the flat in haste, I really wasn’t equipped for the job. It didn’t get better. Jack knifed lorries, queues of cars on uphill runs and people pushing them. The M40 had not cleared overnight. It was so dangerous with mounds of snow between lanes. Not one snowplough in sight. NO police in the SEVEN hours of driving it took us to get from Parabola Road to Hanger Lane!

If that wasn’t enough… Sunday morning, 5am. Got up to check on Heathrow. Flight was scheduled for 10.55am. No snow. A good sign. Getting through on the phone to the airline was not so good. Ended up ringing Singapore to be told that they were on schedule. Hmm, fishy, but hey, KIASU rules the world on that little island. WRONG.

Taxi was waiting at 7.30am. By 8am, the slip road into Heathrow was jammed.. some ‘clever clog’ had decided shut down the traffic lights and every set was on RED. NO cars were allowed into the airport. Except for the service tunnel (no lights). Terminal three was like a third world refugee camp. Passengers were lying on the floors with the courtesy foil blankets handed out by Virgin the night before. Not a member of any airline staff in sight. Well, maybe in mufti – “they walk among us”. No information was offered. Queues began forming everywhere (we’re British!). By 9am, Security began to stop passengers entering the terminal. The shouting and yelling began. Getting out was a problem and certainly no one allowed in. A complete shamble. After a rather expensive phone call to Singapore (again) we were told to go home.

Spent a lovely day, in the warmth of HOME, organic spag bog (homecooked, of course) and even managed a walk to Putney with my daughter for some fresh air before we start ringing Singapore tonight. Surprisingly no alcohol whatsoever in the last 48 hours.

So…. MERRY XMAS to everyone…..

Down Under … Tahbilk, Tahbilk … so good they had to say it twice!

Air Qatar gets my vote of approval. New planes, great pilots and phenomenal service. Even the stopover in Doha was painless with it’s fast-track queue for rapid transit passengers. Almost 24 hours later we arrive in Melbourne. Not quite a journey I recommend but flying over the most amazing fishing area of Exmouth Flats, 1000 miles north of Perth made the journey all the more worth it. Nothing to see as it was dark as we flew past but we vowed we will make a homage later this year for a REAL fishing extravaganza. Watch this space.

Chadstone and Glen Waverley were much the same. Boxhill and even a WestFields shopping centre exists down under. Visited the huge Dan Murphy’s inspecting all the bottles at close range. What a fabulous choice of wines the Aussies have! Had a great time practising Hokkien at Melbourne’s celebrity status “Penang chai tiem ma” – grocery shop. An Aladdin’s cave of all things Penang with the ambience, too!

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The subject is Tahbilk. A member of Australia’s First Families of Wine (‘AFFW’) and celebrating its 150th year in existence, I was determined to visit this producer. Persuading hubby to drive over 2 hours upstate without air-conditioning in the 35ºc heat was a feat in itself but so so worth it. OK R, I owe you big time (within reason). Beautiful scenery and the vineyard was spectactular. tahbilk-2.jpg

Matt Pubrick – you are great – the great grandson of the man who made Tahbilk what it is today. Knowledgeable, well travelled and handsome. The poor chap had to endure my presence for over an hour. Thank you Matt for your patience and allowing me to taste all those bottles… including opening a 2nd bottle. I did so enjoy your company (even if you didn’t feel reciprocal in the matter at the time). You probably gathered what my favourites were and both bottles are now in my cellar awaiting for an appropriate evening. You are going to do great things in your life!

www.tahbilk.com.au

“The AFFW is a group of 12 highly dedicated, enthusiastic, family owned wineries. The group represents 16 Australian regions across four states in Australia with more than 1200 years of winemaking experience. The wineries are Brown Brothers, Campbells, D’Arenberg, De Bortoli, Henschke, Howard Park, Jim Barry, McWilliams, Tahbilk, Taylors, Tyrells and Yalumba.” – Hayley Purbrick.

Scandinavia, Snow…

Work, work, work???

After last week’s adventure, there was more to come.

In preparation for UK’s “worst” weather in 50 years, R booked us on two flights – destination Helsinki monday morning. One out of Gatwick and the other, London’s Heathrow. Taxi booked for 4.45am, airport to be decided at 4.46am. We waited with baited breath, internet on a 24 hour snow alert.

The disappointment on his face as he looked out of the window. Not a flake of snow. The weathermen got it wrong once again! We chose Heathrow having spent more on the flight and the taxi fare was cheaper – and Finnair served a light Finnish breakfast on board – included. Arrived at LHR term 3 and checked in so quickly, we were too early for the lounge. Ended up having coffee with the common herd.

The flight as usual was delayed to the irk of the Finnish pilot. We had to wait an hour for the de-icing machine before take off. Helsinki airport was snow covered. -14ºc and everything was running smoothly. Not even a queue at the taxi rank. Having been assigned “bag look-a-after”, I took a separate taxi into town. 40Euros for a 35 minute ride (probably the scenic route) was worth it. I would never have managed dragging two bags in the snow from the bus terminus to the hotel SOKOS Torni, albeit, a 5 minute walk with change of 34.10Euros (heavier) in my pocket. Once checked in and emails read, the faux fur gillet worn, I headed for Stockmann. Finland’s equivalent to Harrods is by far more interesting. The ice cream stall at the forecourt was doing roaring business. My market research showed liquorice boules in crunchy cones being the top seller. The aromas mingled awkwardly between ice cream and fresh tulips (the stall opposite).

Late lunch consisted of some delicate Graavit Lohi (gravad lax) with a couple of blinis and a dollop of sour cream. I did buy a tablespoon of Lavaret roe (lojrom), quietly smuggled into breakfast to savour with my boiled egg the next morning. A packet of frozen freshTyrni (seabuckthorn) was chucked into my bottle of water for a refreshing filled vit C and Omega7 drink to last me through the day. January is the month for caviar and blinis. Salmon, trout, vandace, lavaret and even vegetarian cavi-art was on offer everywhere on promotion. Brunberg and Fazer chocolates in big bowls. The Finns do have a sweet tooth. For good measure i bought a couple of riesprakkas (Karelian rice pies) still hot, fresh from the oven.

Darkness by 4pm but the snow covered parks lit by old fashioned streetlamps looked postcard pretty. The harbour was delightful with large hunks of ice floating. The covered market with its freshest of fresh seafood, game and fruit was delightful. Dinner at Sundman’s Krog (Helsinki’s oldest restaurant) was as usual good. They even serve LongJin tea. As a hub for most flights to China, Helsinki hosts a multitude of chinese tradesmen. Nokia – Made in China. Everything – Made in China. Surprisingly I have yet to find a decent Chinese restaurant. Lappish, Russian, loads of Italian, Seafood, modern European, even an Indian..

Wednesday:

Helsinki – Oslo

Blue1. The gate was right at the end of terminal 1, a good ten minute walk to my favourite Serviceair lounge opposite the taxfree Stockmann. The lounge won 2009 best lounge award, quite rightly deserved. Free WIFI and no fighting. Lots of seats and plenty of charging points for laptops. There is always lots of Fazer chocolates and great duppios. Decent food too. MH on the other hand was due to fly back to London. Yep… BA cancelled it’s flight. Poor chap ended up buying a £350 a single ticket to Manchester via Amsterdam on KLM.

Arrived in Oslo at 19.45pm. -18ºc

Thursday:

Oslo – Copenhagen

It was so cold in Oslo, even the faux fur failed to keep me warm. My fingers were frozen. At this, I decided the Baby Alpaca gillet had to be shelved. I wasn’t brave enough to venture out, besides my paperwork was so overview, the MacBook almost gave up the ghost and I thought I had a virus! Next trip.

The airport express train was brilliant and on time. 20 minutes to and from the central terminal to Gardomoen is pretty good, even if it costs 127NOK each way. Once through airport security, there is plenty to do. The Kontiki restaurant serves good thai prawn curry with rice. The girl in front of me ordered a sour cream smothered baked potato with a 9-11high skewer of crispy bacon speared vertically through. Sit upstairs where few people know about. Salmon House sells all the Norwegian morsels. Definitely worth a look. Temptation to buy a reindeer skin to lie on was shattered by the hounding angel over my right shoulder of “Robert will not let you check your bag in on your return trip tomorrow night from Copenhagen”. The angel always wins.

Flight was delayed to to technical problem. Quite what the problem was we were not told. Eventually landed at Copenhagen and a quick taxi ride to the Square Hotel. It was late and all I wanted want a good night’s sleep. Breakfast at the Square is brilliantly healthy. I recommend this hotel strongly!

After hours of recces at hotels downtown, I made my way to the train station and headed for the Airport Hilton for my last meeting. After quizzing and checing out more hotel rooms (god, it sounds so voyeuristic!) I walked across to the airport and headed for the security. Found the lounge and sunk into a nice cosy corner to finish my notes.

Flight home was unadventurous and it was just nice sleeping in my own bed!

Lutefisk

In Search of the culinary Holy Grail

LUTEFISK

Cod (Stockfish) is dried in the cold arctic air till leathery and hard. When ready for use, the fish is reconstituted in culinary Lye – a solution of potassium hydroxide or potash. This process plumps the fish back to it’s normal size and probably removes all fat in the process. The fish is then filleted and washed. It is sold vacuum packed at this stage. To cook, the fish is cut into portions and placed skin side down in a baking dish. Some salt is sprinkled over, then the dish is covered with foil and baked for about 40 minutes at 200ºc. Because the fish has been soaked in water, the cooking will release this and in a way, gently steam the fish under cover.
Certainly not the mythical gelatinous gloop everybody talks about. It is not transparent. It is not soupy. It is not horrible. The lightly steamed fillet is served with crispy bacon, two mustards, grainy and powdered with some grated brunøst (Norwegian brown sweet cheese) and lefse (pancakes). All washed down with Norwegian beer and traditionally a Line aquavit  chaser. Eaten only around Christmas, Norwegians either crave or dismiss it. Folklore maintains it’s lucky, unlucky or otherwise… depending when and how you ate it.
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It all began that fateful day some fifteen years ago when R, on one of his Oslo trips, tasted this “unsumptious” morsel.

London, 3rd Dec 2009 marked my quest. Over a massive okonomiyaki feast with my friendly foodie vikings, the L word was mentioned. Rubbing the salt in, they then invited me to join them at their 2009 Lutefisk feast in Oslo 3 days after. Having politely declined due to time constraints, I was then sent a photo of the dish by the temptress herself during the meal. That did it – the challenge was set: Oslo, 6th Jan 2010.

Cafè Engebret

Bankplassen 1

Tel +47 22 82 25 25

http://www.engebret-cafe.no

The chef was told to hold one portion of Lutefisk. Flights and hotel booked, the event was set in stone.

Simple… the journey began. January 5th 2010, an auspicious day to say the least. The sun shining, bags packed and a fairly big birthday for R. Certainly required a pair of healthy lungs to blow out those candles (I managed – just, to light them all up before the wax melted away).

I even managed to serve up the traditional birthday noodles for breakfast. We left the house. School trunk, tuckbox plus 7 other items were put in the boot. The baglady herself comfortably settled with iPod glued in ears, we set off to drop Nat to school. As the minutes ticked away, so did the sun. By Burford, the clouds honed in. Within minutes, white specks, then fluff and then clumps of cottonwool. Andoversford was panneforte like and it just got whiter and whiter. Cheltenham College was postcard material. As the heavy snow came down, we continued to unpack and then bravely walked to MontP for lunch. Brave??? Birthday lunch and to apease Nat, sore, that we had managed to reach Cheltenham. 30 of the 60 SA girls did not make it back.

We had to be pushed out of SA and it took 4 hours to get to Oxford. Trucks and cars were abandoned along the single tracked A40. From snowless Oxford to Gatwick, R stepped on the gas and we were parked, checked in and at the gate with 10 minutes to departure. Arrived and in bed by 1.30am. Box ticked.

Spent the next day shopping and preparing myself for the “Indiana Jones”. Saw the most amazing baby Alpaca gillett at 499…. (at that point husband said why didn’t you buy it..). 9 NOK. Clearly he was glad I didn’t succumb. The meal was fabulous and company sincerely made the event. Norwegian hospitality is second to none. Crawled into bed at 1am.

The return home to London was even more fraught. Our flight was cancelled and darling R paid the £600 for single tickets rebooked on SAS, landing at Heathrow. A taxi was waiting to take us back to Gatwick to collect the car.

Overall, a truly exciting adventure and a quest completed…. NEXT>>>>

My sincere thanks to Marit at Oslo International Airport’s Salmon House, who so patiently allowed me to photograph and “interrogate” her. I did spend a few NOKs in her shop buying dried cod slices and you know what, I may yet make some lutefisk!

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Cremona City of Violins

One of my favourite places on Earth. Bright and early I got myself to Milan’s Centrale armed with €11 for the return ticket and before getting on to the train, direction Mantova, punching my ticket in the yellow box at the platform. If lucky, the train is the ‘fast’ direct to Cremona, if not – get ready to jump out at Codogno and run. There is usually a local chugger waiting, with the added adrenalin filled Italian game of “find the train”. This time, signed posted platform one, a great relief till I realised it was a long way away (almost to Cremona!!!).

cremona-1.jpg Headed for the Consorzio with L walking pass the statue of Stradivari in the main square. As ever, a friendly face to greet us. Organised a viewing and trial of a Baroque violin with one of the world’s best known baroque luthiers, Eduardo Gore for the afternoon. Directions were drawn on a bit of paper and we left to visit Pietro Del Rhee another great luthier. Tried a few fab bows on Rhee’s newly made Guarneri Del Gesu styled violin and we left to view the collection. L spent €5 and a good 30 minutes, gorking at the squillions of liras worth of string instruments including Stradivaris, Amatis, Guarneris and, and, and.. sadly no performance that day. If lucky (and I have been) the curator, Prof Musconi will pull out the Stradivari “Il Cremonese” and play a private recital if a group is available (for €1.50 each). This can be organised through Patti Kaden. Time permitting, she can organise a short lecture with a luthier on violin making and if there are any concerts, the Teatro Ponchielli is definitely worth the treat.

Lunch with Patti was at our usual Pizzeria Duomo run by 5 generations of pizza makers. NIcola the propietor is a character.

The Duomo is worth a visit and the remains of Santa Omobono, the patron saint of Cremona, lies in the crypt. Don’t leave Cremona without a jar of Mostarda di Cremona, a mustardy syrupy concoction of glacé fruit eaten with cheese and meats, especially the Bollito Misto.

Milan Flying Visit

4.30am the diesel engine is purring outside and I am paranoid the neighbours will complain. Quite why taxis just won’t switch off engines while waiting, I cannot fathom. After all, we are meant to think GREEN. Quietly shutting the door (if that is ever possible) and for the first time in years, I don’t have to alarm the house, the bane of my life as I am never sure I’ve done everything. Taps, windows, lights.. then getting the code right, without alerting the police.

There’s actually someone home and not the husband!

The ride is quick. Straight through security as check in was done a week earlier. I had only handluggage to struggle with so into the lounge. Yes, proper duppio and some bottled water. The WiFi was free. Quick emails….. how impressive is that, at 5.30am in the morning!!! A quick read of the papers and I head off to the gate. Flights are always on time this early. The staff are great after a night’s sleep and even the jokes aren’t as cheesy. Dead on time for the take off slot and we’re off.

Milan terminal 2, ten minutes early. I’m on a roll. The Malpensa Express at €11.50 is really not that painful, 40 minutes and you are in downtown Milano, so I thought. Wrong choice. We ended up being pushed or pulled (I can’t remember) to the next station and had to wait for the next train. Hmm, maybe the slower coach ride to Centrale at €6.50 would have been better. Hotel – two and a half hours later. At least I’m on the top floor with a view, the local petrol station. When in Italy do as the Romans do, in this case, feed them to the lions.

Dinner was exceptionally good. It always helps to have a hunky Italian with you. No idea what was said and no menu was brought to us. I only understood that no fresh “ricci” (sea urchin) was available – my only request for the evening. Scallops, prawns, mussels (cozze) and then a salad of pulpo and the freshest baby green leaves lightly dressed in DOP EVOO (extra virgin olive oil). Hmm, then lobster linguine. By then it was impossible to get any dessert in. Lovely bottle of Sardo white to wash it all down. Now even the hunk began to worry about the bill. We did not leave the hunk to do the washing.

Sleep -have been up for twenty hours.

Montepulciano and Montalcino

Heart of Tuscany – where bedbugs do bite, rustic cooking does exist and such deep holes on the dirt tracks, chickens can’t cross… but, absolutely breathtaking scenery and the Black Truffle is king.

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Best of all, the working ‘original’ Cinqucento at the Agriturismo.

Bit of advice – get a SatNav. It’s crucial for sanity if one intends to enjoy the view and not have one’s head stuck in a map while the driver abuses one. Sign posts are few and far between and directions suddenly disappear as fast as they appear. Alternatively – be blessed with C, our virtual routemaster. Thank God for mobiles!

The motorway stops are clean, the duppio is marvellous and they double up nicely as supermarkets with a fantastic array of salami, cheeses and all things culinary. Great stop before the airport and much cheaper, too.

Montalcino is devine. A hilly little place with shop after shop selling the local Brunello and Pinci pasta. Definitely worth a stop and walk. Look for the little bakery selling the local panforte.

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Lucca in Toscana

Tuscan life. Flight to Pisa from Gatwick was painless. Car rental: remind me never to accept an upgrade of any sort ever again in Italy with or without the Sat Nav! It was almost instant implosion, coupled with murder, suicide and divorce all in one. The brand new Merc Estate was almost left in the walled city of Lucca in a quarter turn position down the wrong way of a one way street.

Things calmed down after a good soak in the jacuzzi, checked emails on the free WIFI, and, we did have a marvellous dinner over a great bottle of Frescobaldi Chianti Reserva. Even managed to strike up conversation with a German couple and shared wines (they ordered a Brunello). Best of all, no driving back to the hotel. The car was parked in a lock up garage.

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Puccini’s house was small. His statue is in the square by the Hotel Puccini (don’t stay there if you have luggage… pedestrianised area and there is NO way you can drive there!!!) There is even a shop that sells all things Puccini.

A walk along the wall is a must with a bag of fresh figs – both green and black.